Thank You Ireland, We Hope to See You Again

​Knowing today was a short walk, Amy and I did not feel too rushed to leave this morning. We left our guesthouse at about 10 am and the weather was amazing. It is the warmest day we have had yet. And the sky was blue filled with white clouds. When the weather is good here it seriously can't be beat.

River running through the farmland

Our walk took us along a tarmac road out of Castlegregory and then it met up with the beach again. For us, walking as many miles as we have on the beach with so few people has been a highlight of our trip. The beaches here are clean and feel remote. They are often flanked by high sand dunes with tall green grasses.

Photo credit: Amy Maruska

We stopped a lot to take pictures today, naturally. The path led us off the beach onto another tarmac road and as we approached the Sea View House B&B we took our final steps off The Dingle Way.

We walked 93 miles, took 225,945 steps and climbed 481 floors. WOW!

Walking through Ireland has afforded us an experience the ordinary tourist can't get by driving through each town. We have traversed farmlands, mountains, beaches and villages and seen views you can only get on foot.

We have spoken to the kindest of locals genuinely interested in our experience of the walk and of their country. We have been fed some wonderful food made with love.

But above all, the best part is going through this experience with the amazing partner I have in Amy. I feel so fortunate that we have created this memory together for a lifetime.

Last trail marker. Finished! 

Sand as Far as the Eye Can Sea

Amy and I started off this morning with a good Irish breakfast. Given that breakfast is my favorite meal I have been loving starting my mornings with good eats. Our goal today was to walk from Cloghane to Castlegregory. We were particularly excited because this portion of the walk almost entirely is on the beach.

Barefoot today

Today's path

There was heavy wind and light rain most of last night but thankfully by the time we started to walk it began to clear. This stretch of beach is the longest in Ireland and spans 7 miles. About a mile into the walk we had to cross a river that flows into the sea. We evaluated the best place to cross and there was no way to avoid getting our shoes wet. We decided to take our shoes off and wade through the water barefoot. The cold water was so refreshing on our feet we kept our shoes off for the remaining 6 miles. Amy and I were grinning the whole way because we had views of the ocean and blue skies to our left, sand dunes to our right and mountains behind us. It was so picturesque we just wanted to take it all in and savor it.

Amy kicking back

At the end of the beach we arrived to the town of Fahamore which is at the tip of a finger of the peninsula. We walked through the town about a mile to get to the other side. We arrived to a huge bay where the water was so calm.

At the end of this stretch of beach we will have walked 15 miles today. We made a right turn off the beach up a road. I was ready to find our B&B for the night. We passed by a futbol club with some kids playing and then an Irish language school. We looked at each other and wondered how far we would have to walk. We turned our heads and there was the sign for the Castle House B&B.

After a much needed hot shower we were seriously in need of some grub. We asked our host for a recommendation and she suggested Ned's pub. I haven't said a lot about the food here in Ireland but it has surpassed our expectations. We have had chicken curry, steak, Thai seafood stir fry, fish and the desserts! Berry crumble, warm apple tart, brownie a la mode and cheesecake.

Tomorrow is our last day of walking. A short five miles to Camp and we might even have time to get a ride to Dingle to do a little souvenir shopping and visit the distillery.

Stats

1. Miles: 15

2. Floors climbed: 1

3. Steps taken: 36,000

4. Hikers: 2

5. Sheep - handful

6. Horses - 10

Going the Pilgrim's Way or No Way

Yesterday we had to determine whether or not to hike over Mount Brandon. The good news is it seemed like the rain would hold off but the wind was expected to be terrible. We learned from our hosts that there was a different route we could take that cuts through the mountain at a lower elevation. It's part of the path called The Pilgrim's Route which dates back to medieval times. It's also called the Southern route since you climb the southern or backside of the mountain.

View of Mount Brandon

We opted for the Southern route. Our host dropped us at the base of the mountain along with two other hikers. The rain did hold off but the forecast was right about the wind. This route is relatively short but does require a pretty steep climb.

The wind would make a high pitched howl like Mother Nature was talking to us directly. The gusts (40-50 mph) were so strong at times it literally would push us into a slow jog forward or 3 steps to the right.

We completed the steep climb and on the other side there were two farms to walk through that were nestled up against 3 small lakes. The wind was so strong that it would pick up over the lake and create waves and a white mist that would start small and climb several several feet into the air.

Waterfall in the farm we crossed  

At this point we were no longer sheltered by the mountain so the gusts of wind felt even stronger. So strong we were thrown so far we had no choice but to kneel down in the "thinker" position and wait it out. There were moments Amy and I just looked at each other and laughed nervously because we couldn't believe we were experiencing this.

We came out to a tarmac road and walked the rest of the way into Cloghane to our B&B for the night O'Connor's Pub. We got there relatively early in the afternoon and then it became social hour all afternoon and evening.

The owner of the pub made himself present off and on during the night. He is part businessman, bartender and story teller. The pub it turns out has been here since 1860 in the same family.

He asked us where we were from and we told him Los Angeles. A couple of hikers came in the front door in the middle of the conversation and overheard us saying we worked downtown and the female hiker said she worked downtown also. I looked up and my face super recognizing skills went into action and I knew she worked for my company The Capital Group. She confirmed this. Mind blown! Her name is Ingrid and she is doing with walk with her uncle Henrick. It gives new meaning to "what a small world". We spent the rest of the evening sharing stories of travels and even played cards while sipping my favorite beer "Tom Crean's" lager.

Ingrid and Kim - Colleagues at The Capital Group

Stats:

1. Miles: 7.5

2. Steps: 17,445

3. Floors climbed: 122

4. Hikers seen: 2

5. Sheep: handful

Have Fun Storming the Castle!

Today was our day of rest so what did we do? We....went for a walk. The locals here in Ballydavid all think the weather will be bad enough tomorrow that we won't be able to make the ascent over Mount Brandon. This is disappointing since our walk yesterday was cut short. There is an alternate route we can take along the side of the mountain even in bad weather. So we will make a decision in the morning. 

We were talking to our hosts Philamena and Mike this morning and they suggested a cliff side walk that leads to the ruins of an old castle. The weather was amazing today and we knew we had to take advantage of it especially if we can't climb Mount Brandon. Mike was kind enough to give us a lift to the start of the path and then the plan was to walk the entire way back into town. 

Today's walk

The cliff side part of the walk marked in red was an easy grassy path with sheer cliff drop offs  to our left. Then the path turns right with a steep climb up the ridge. At the top there were the remnants of a castle in the form of stone walls. The steep climb was well worth the effort for the 360 view at the top. 

Cliff drop offs with view of Three Sisters in the distance

View from the top

Descending from the castle

We didn't stay too long because we had already stopped several times to take pictures and we had to get back to Ballydavid for a 3 pm massage appointment. We followed the yellow path back to our hotel. We got off the ridge and I looked at my watch and it was 1:45 pm and we had to walk 5 miles. Yikes. We picked up the pace and made that 5 miles in just less than an hour. And then I really needed that massage. 

We had a mellow dinner at TP's pub again and then back to the B&B to get ready for tomorrow. Given we had two days of amazing weather and a sunset to remember I think our time in Ballydavid will be a highlight of our trip.  

Stats

1. Miles: 8

2. Floors climbed: 69

3. Steps: 19,500

4. Hikers seen: 8

5. Castles: 1

The Storm will Blow Over

We woke up to a very stormy and incredibly windy day so we decided to forego the walk we would have done today and get a lift to our next lodging. But before leaving Dunquin we walked to the Blasket Island Centre. We read about the history of the islands and its peoples.

It will blow over... 

After the Blasket Centre we walked to a local pottery store where we saw locals making plates, piggy banks and lamps. It was a beautiful shop with high quality products so we did a bit of souvenir shopping. For the record, the storm was really heavy during this period and two cars with locals stopped and offered us a ride. If locals offered us a ride that should tell you how bad the storm was.

Our ride came and brought us to Ballydavid which will be our home for the next two nights. We prescheduled a mid trip day of rest here. Straight to TP's pub we went for and Irish coffee and a Dingle Gin and tonic and some lunch.

Our lodging in Ballydavid is called "Imeall na Mara" owned by Philomena and Sean. The former's parents lived on this property and after they passed they tore down the house and built a B&B. The location is very picturesque. Imagine the lodging being on the right side of a lopsided U and the ocean fills the hollow of the U.

You had to see it to believe it but the storm actually blew over by about 4 pm much to my excitement because it looked like I might finally get to use the big camera.

It is much colder here than it has been so we bundled up and at the beginning of soft light, around 6:30 pm we took a short walk to the sea. Finally Kimmie T in her element! It felt so good to be shooting again.

Photo credit: Amy Maruska

Some middle school kids walking on the beach asked us what we were doing. We told them photography and they heard our "accents" and immediately they said "are you from around here? We told them we were from Hollywood to see how they would react. They smiled wide eyed and we exchanged names.

• Me - "What is your name?"

• Boy - "Sean, what is your name?"

• Me - "Kim"

• Boy - "Like Kim Kardashian!"

• Me - "But my butt isn't as big as hers."

Amy and I ran around for the next 2 hours like kids trying to find the best vantage for the sunset. We ended up on a grassy path with sheer cliff drop offs overlooking the sea. Experiencing the sea in this element feels authentic and raw. It honestly was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen.

Photo credit: Amy Maruska  

Close to 9 pm now we closed the night with another drink at TP's and had a spirited conversation with some locals.

#iloveireland

Stats

1. Miles: 5

2. Steps: 12,000

3. Floors climbed: 34

4. Raindrops: Bazillion

5. Number of hikers we saw: 0

6. Number of sheep and cattle:  handful

7. Irish school kids: 5

Taking the High Road to Dunquin

The Emlagh House served up a wonderful breakfast for us this morning complete with ham and cheese omelettes, yogurt and granola, and pancakes which were more like small crepes served with Nutella. 

Today's element is water because we started our walk on the beach. What a welcome change from the mud and cow dung. We determined it is when we walk on the tarmac roads that it is hardest on our feet so walking on firm sand gave us a much needed break. 

After the strand of beach we made our way to a grassy path with some tall hedge groves. In parts the grove is so narrow it barely fits one person. All over our walk many of the groves have wild blackberries growing. So every time I see a large one that I think will be sweet I pick it and eat it.

The path eventually came out to a tarmac road. It was here that our walking notes said we could go one of two ways. We could go to higher ground via a grassy path or take the main road down below. In option one, there is a river to cross and if the river was overflowing due to rain it might be difficult to get over and the only choice would be to go back to the road. So (here it comes) we decided to take the high road. 

The "high road" was a track cut into the side of Mount Eagle (Sliabh an Iolair). Dunquin, our destination, lies on the western slope of this mountain range adjacent to the sea. The southern slope of Mount Eagle falls steeply away to the sea to form Slea Head. 

Then the rain came. We walked for about 2-3 hours in the rain and at times it was a downpour. There was no one in site except Amy and I with a LOT of sheep. Our main guidance was a four foot stone wall that we followed the entire way. I learned the origin of the word sheepish. We would walk within 3 or 4 feet of the sheep and they would run away hurriedly.

Don't be sheepish with me  

The track, on a clear day is "supposed" to afford incredible views of Slea Head and the Blasket Islands. We saw none of that from the track. As we started to descend we got little glimpses of the bottom half of the islands in the distance. We couldn't see Slea Head at all. We figured we wouldn't see it and chalked it up to Irish weather. We took an image anyway to document it. 

And then something spectacular happened. The rainy skies, clouds and fog fully cleared and we had a full view of The Blasket Islands and Slea Head with blue skies. We felt incredibly lucky and thankful. 

Blasket Islands in the distance and Slea Head on the right.  

Stats

1. Miles: 11.5

2. Steps: 26,000

3. Floors climbed: 55

4. Number of hikers we saw: 4

5. Stiles: 3

6. Sheep: Too many to count

7. Blue skies: Just enough just in time! 

Dingle lyfts our spirits

Amy and I decided to forego the traditional Irish breakfast this morning so we could get an earlier start to Dingle. We got a reprieve from the rain yesterday and only got a few droplets today which led thankfully to more photo opportunities. 

Yesterday's element was water. Today's was air. Coming from California we really expected to be cold here and it has been very warm by Ireland's standards and even more surprising very humid. More than one local has mentioned how humid it is. I walked in a short sleeve shirt the entire day. 

The trail today consisted of minor tarmac roads and farmlands. So that meant more mud (a LOT of mud), more stiles and more cow dung. Sounds lovely doesn't it? In actuality it was beautiful. It was a series of ups and downs that at the low point took us to "Stony Beach" which was the closest we have been to the sea yet. There were green hills to the left. The sea and distant mountains ahead of us and to top it off the ancient ruins Minard Castle to the right.  

Stony Beach and Minard Castle  

At the high point we used a series of stiles to take us between multiple farmlands. Today we actually walked through a farm. We approached one gate and posted was a sign that said "Beware of Bull". Huh??? We proceeded over the stile and saw several gentile cows grazing. Mind you we were about 15 feet from these cows. I look a left and saw a calf and slowed down to take a closer look. Unbeknownst to me papa bull was right behind the calf with its little white horns. And then I feel a firm push from behind. It was Amy using her nonverbal cue telling me to "keep moving!".

When we approached Dingle our friend Tom Crean showed up again. This time in the form of a lager named after him and brewed at the Dingle Brewery. I will let the picture speak for itself. 

Most of our B&B's have been small but have multiple stories so we have carried our luggage up 2 and 3 flights. The host at The Emlagh in Dingle greeted us warmly as all the hosts have. She wanted to show us our room and we got ready to carry our luggage again until she told us they had a lyft. What a perfect way to end the walk!

After cleaning up Amy and I ate at a wonderful dinner at the Chart House and then walked to a pub that was playing traditional Irish music. We stayed for a few songs and then turned in for the night. 

Irish pub with traditional music

Stats: 

1. Miles: 16 miles

2. Steps: ​34,000

3. Floors climbed: 73​

4. Stiles: 12​

Washed Out to Sea

This morning we left from Camp which is inland on the peninsula and took the path straight to the sea. Our destination was Annascaul, home and birthplace of Irish icon Tom Crean, famous South Pole explorer. This will be significant later.

Yesterday's element was wind. Today's element was water and boy did the rain come. We started out at about 9 a.m. and we walked in rain for 3 hours. At times it was a complete downpour for several minutes, hence the title. The terrain was like a grassy gravel road which allowed us to keep a pretty fast pace. Our intent was to reach Inch Strand beach which made a good stopping point because it had a cafe .

Typical Irish Countryside  

The rain broke just shortly before we approached Inch Strand and we got our first glimpse of the sea that we will follow for the next several days. Off and on we have been walking alongside a solo hiker named Kirsten from Germany. We have been somewhat envious of this ginormous red poncho like thing she has that fits over her body and her backpack so she doesn't need a separate cover for her each. We call her "Little Red Riding Hood". We ate lunch with her at the Inch Strand Cafe and exchanged stories about other travels.

Inch Strand Beach

After lunch we made our final approach to Annascaul. If I had choose another prevalent element earth would have been a close second. I have never stepped in so much mud in my life. Squish squash. We reached Annascaul which is a small charming village. We are usually so tired that we opt to eat first and shower later. We ate at "The South Pole" which is the bar formerly owned by none other than the famous Tom Crean. The bar is a wonderful tribute to his life with old pictures and written stories everywhere. They even have the timeline of his life painted on the ceiling. I enjoyed some Jameson Gold and Amy has been enjoying the recent award winning Dingle Gin.

The trip is just the right amount of challenge for us. Ireland is a truly beautiful country and the Irish people are so welcoming.

Kimmie T. 

Stats

1. Miles: 11.5

2. Steps: 29,000

3. Floors climbed: 51

4. Raindrops: Bazillion

5. Soaked muddy boots: 4

6. Number of hikers we saw: 5

7. Number of sheep and cattle:  lost count

Arrived!

Our trip went off with out a hitch and I'm happy to report we are in Shannon, Ireland. Just before we landed Ireland welcomed us with this beautiful rainbow.

Luck of the Irish! 

First impressions....

1. Close your eyes and imagine how green Ireland is. It's greener than that...

2. I'm really glad we are walking and not driving.  

3. Is that English they are speaking? 

First Guinness and Cider

T-Minus 24 hours

In 24 hours, Amy and I will be on a plane to Europe. It's our first time back in 5 years. When researching this trip we really wanted return to the lodge to lodge style of travel. For us it is the best of both worlds.  We get to exhaust ourselves with a long trek during the day and then are rewarded at days end with a hot meal prepared for us and a comfy bed. We discovered that Ireland has multiple choices for this kind of travel and decided to hike the entire Dingle Peninsula on the west coast.

Our flight pattern is LA to London with a short layover and then to Shannon, Ireland where we will rest our weary heads for one night before our journey begins. 

This is my first time doing a travel blog and I'm very excited to share our experiences with you along The Dingle Way.